FRONT LACED KIRTLE

THIS IS MY LATEST I WAS SEARCHING THE WEB AND I CAME UPON PICTURES OF THE LATE 1400'S THIS DRESS I THINK WAS THE BEGINING OF THE TUDOR GOWN AND ELIZABETHAN GOWNS.IT IS A KIRTLE THAT WAS WORN UNDER A MAIN GOWN CALLED A BURGUNDIAN I THINK THIS WAS ANOTHER TYPE OF KIRTLE SOMETIMES LINED WITH ANIMAL FUR AROUND THE CUFFS AND NECK.ALSO INTERLINED WITH FUR.THE KIRTLE CONSISTS OF A SMOCK WITH A SLIT OPENING FOR THE NECK NO FULL SLEEVES LIKE TUDOR ETC.MADE OF LINEN.AND A ONE OR TWO PIECE KIRTLE MINE IS TWO PIECES.THE SKIRT HAS SMALL BOX PLEATS FROM THE FRONT TO THE SIDE SEAMS AND LARGER BOX PLEATS FROM THE SIDE SEAMS TO THE BACK..i PUT PINS AT EACK SEAM AND THE CENTER BACK TO MAKE THE PLEATING EASER.I USED ONE PANNEL FOR THE BACK SKIRT AND ONE FOR THE FRONT CUT IN HALF WITH A GORE UP THE MIDDLE THESE ARE MUCH EASER FOR ME PUT IN BUT NOT A PIECE OF CAKE.IM NOT THAT GREAT AT IT AND I JUST CANT SEEM TO MEASURE RIGHT OR I DONT UNDERSTAND HOW TO.SOO I GUESS AND IT OFTEN TURNS OUT RIGHT,WHEW!I PUT GUSSET UNDER THE ARM.I HATE GUSSETS!~ AND IM NOT THAT GREAT AT THEM BUT THEY WILL PASS FOR NOW.SHORT SLEEVES I MAY SHORTEN THEM A WEE BIT MORE MAYBE.I PLAYED WITH THE BODICE LENGTH A COUPLE OF TIMES LIKE I SAID,MEASURING IS A BEAST FOR ME.BUT I FINALLY FOUND MY WAIST.CUT, CUT, CUT, AND THE BODICE DOESNT LOOK TOO LONG FOR ME ANYMORE.I ALSO MADE A PARTLET USING A BODICE PATTERN WITH A FEW ADJUSTMENTS.I CUT IT JUST SLIGHTLY TOO SHORT SO I ADDED BIAS TAPE AROUND THE BOTTOM THIS ISNT PERIOD BUT IT WILL PASS.I WILL TRY TO FLAT FELL THE SEAMS OF THE GORE.I SERGED THE REST OF THE SEAMS..I DIDNT HAD TO HEM THE BOTTOM BECAUSE OF THE KIND OF WOOL I FOUND............AT A THRIFT STORE 5 YARDS FOR TWO DOLLARS AND FIFTY CENTS.SCORE.IT HUNTER GREEN I GUESS.I WILL REMAKE THE SHIFT TO A MORE PERIOD NECK OPENING WITH A PATTERN I GOT FROM A WEB SITE CALLED (RECONSTRUCTING HISTORY)I TRIED TO CHANGE ANOTHER PATTERN BUT THE WHOLE THING TURNED OUT A MESS. YOU KNOW WHEN YOU TAKE A CAKE OUT OF THE OVEN PIPING HOT AND TRY TO FROST IT AND IT CRUMBLES?NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO IT GETS WORSE AND WORSE.?WELL,THAT WAS THE SHIFT I TRIED TO CHANGE.I KILLED IT.SO I TOOK IT APART AND MADE THE NECK GATHERED.THESE ARE THE PICTURE OF THE MAKING OF MY FRONT LACED KIRTLE.THIS IS THE FIRST ONE I EVER MADE.

the walls in my sewing room and my favorite serger the Juki 734 DE

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SEWING RENAISSANCE CLOTHES

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THIS IS MY FIRST ATTEMPT RE-CREATING A HISTORICAL GOWN.I COPIED JANE SEYMOUR'S PAINTING.IN THE PIC ABOVE I FORGOT TO PUT THE GIRDLE ON,MAN! MAYBE I'LL GET INTO IT AGAIN FOR A NEW PIC?..........IM STILL THINKING.
THE GOWN IS MADE OF RED MICRO VELVET,(YOU CAN WASH)STILL HIDEOUS TO SEW WITH! THE FALSE SLEEVES ARE BROCADE OF BROWNS AND GOLDS.THE UNDER SLEEVES ARE RED & GOLD UPHOLSTERY FABRIC WITH DIAMONDS.THE TRIM AROUND NECK AND FOREPART OPENING RESEMBLES THE EMBROYDERED WORK ON QUEEN JANE'S GOWN AND FOR THE LIFE OF ME I CAN'T REMEMBER WHERE I BOUGHT IT FROM......, I SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT IT ALL. I HOPE I FIND IT AGAIN SOMEDAY.
THE SHIFT IS 100% WHITE HANKY LINEN THE NECK AND WRISTS TRIMED WITH BLACK WORK DONE ON MY PFAFF SEWING MACHINE NOT BY HAND I'M NOT THAT CRAZY!!
THE SPANISH FARTHENGALE I MADE MYSELF FROM DIRECTIONS OF ANOTHER DRESS DIARY.THE GABLE HOOD I MADE OUT OF LINEN,BLACK VELVET AND BROCADE GOT THAT PATTERN FROM A GABLE HOOD DIARY.EXCELLENT!
IF YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS I WOULD BE HAPPY TO GET SOME GOOD OR CRITACLE.BOTH ARE GOOD FOR ME

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I FINISHED THIS GOWN IN TWO DAYS IT'S MADE OF DUPONI SILK AND I USED
MC ALLS PATTERN 5444.I WILL ADD MORE TRIM SOON AND POST IT AGAIN.I LOVE THIS FABRIC AND WILL MOST LIKELY USE IT AGAIN.

ELIZABETHAN GOWN

2 DAYS AGO I STARTED THIS GOWN FOR MY WEB SITE SO I COULD REPLACE THE PICTURE OF THE PATTERN I HAVE THERE.I GOT THIS FABRIC FROM A PERSON WHO HELPED LIQUIDATE THE HANCOCK FABRIC STORE IN EUREKA CA.SO0000000 VERY SAD BUT TRUE.I'M CRYING NOW.
AT LEAST WE STILL HAVE THE WEB!
THE FABRIC IS UPHOLSTERY WITH DIAMOND SHAPES. THE COLORS ARE BROWN BACK GROUND SOME GOLD AND GREEN.IT REALLY CAUGHT MY EYE.
I'VE NEVER MADE AN ELIZABETHAN GOWN BEFORE.
I'VE ALWAYS BEEN DRAWN TO TUDOR GOWNS SO,I WAS SURPRISED WHEN THE SHOULDER STRAPS CAME FROM THE BACK TO THE FRONT.MAYBE IT'S JUST THIS PATTERN?I DON'T KNOW.ANYWAY,I'VE ALMOST FINISHED THE BODICE MINUS BONING AND WITH A FEW ADJUSTMENTS WITH THE PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS.I DID IT MY OWN WAY.IT IS A COSTUME PATTERN AFTER ALL.I PINED THE SLEEVES ON TO SEE HOW IT LOOKS?TH ATS MY DUMMY TWIN ITS ON.WHAT DO YOU THINK?OH I ALSO RAN OUT OF FABRIC SO I HAD TO LEAVE OUT ONE SKIRT PANEL BUT,I USED THE LARGEST SIZE HOPEFULLY THIS WORKS OUT.I SHORTENED IT BEFORE CUTTING TO MY HEIGHT.I CAN'T WAIT TO PUT THE SKIRT ON.I ALMOST MADE IT FRONT OPENING .MAYBE NEXT TIME WITH HOOKS AND EYES. THINKING ABOUT USING RINGS IN BACK INSTEAD OF GROMMETS.WELL SEE
Well,i really messed up First I put the grommets in along the edge where one might put the boning strip(dahh)What was I thinking?.then I tried it on too small.I knew I should have left the dart with in instead,I folded the pattern where the darts were and pined the pattern then cut the fabric big mistake this time.*I think I did this before in another life.So I was trying to figure out where to add a panel to enlarge the bodice

and decided to cut the back where I just added 14 grommets>":?"?>!I cut alongside the grommets up the back and added a 2 1/2 inch strip extention on either side of the new back,added boning to either side of the new grommets.I took a chance and it worked!! the fabric is fab you cant even notice what I did.so here is a pic of the bodice before the added extention and after.Can you tell?


AN UP DATE:WELL,I FINISHED THE BODICE EDGE WITH DARK BROWN BIAS TAPE YOU NEED A CLEAN FINISHED EDGE TO CARTRIDGE PLEAT.MAKE SURE IF YOU DO IT THIS WAY TO SEW RIGHT BELOW THE BIAS TAPE OTHER WISE IT WILL SHOW ON THE FRONT.YES I MADE THAT MISTAKE,SO I HAVE TO DOUBLE MY STITCHES, OH WELL IT WILL BE STRONGER.I HAVE ONE MORE SIDE TO DOUBLE.THIS IS MY SECOND TIME AT PERIOD PLEATING AND ACTUALLY, IT IS A LOT SIMPLER AND FASTER THIS TIME.HERE IS A CLOSE UP OF THE CARTDRIDGE PLEATING.I'AM STILL AM TRYING TO FIND PEARLS TO HAND SEW ONTO THE SLEEVES AND I WILL HAVE A HARD TIME FINDING TRIM TO MATCH THIS GREAT FABRIC.IF I DONT FIND ANY IT WILL STILL LOOK GREAT.ANYBODY KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND THESE PLEASE LET ME KNOW?!

A PICTURE OF ME AND MY WESTIE,KELTIE